Day 3 25th April Leh, monasteries, snow and power cuts

Photo above - Shey Monastery near Leh, Ladakh.

An early start in the dark

Well, that was interesting! Last night as I was preparing to go to bed at about 8.30pm(!), we suffered the third mini power cut since we have been in the hotel. Also someone came to my door to see if I needed a portable heater for the night! I thought it safer not to. This morning, we have planned to meet our guide at 5.45am and I find that the power is still off, nothing has charged, and I have to get dressed in the dark! When I got down to the lobby, some of the hotel staff were asleep on makeshift beds!

Heading south east out of town

By the time we hit the road it was getting light, but was very grey and cold. We drove back down through the town, and continued south east on to Thiksey monastery. To start with the road was quite bumpy and only really one lane was tarmaced leading to frequent off roading in to the dirt. We saw lots of building work, most seemed unfinished. A lot of this construction is for people coming in from the small remote villages to get work. We passed a palace, which is visited annually by the Tibetan Dalai Lama, who comes from his place of exile in another state to pass on his teachings to local Ladakhis.

Thiksey Monastery morning prayer with the monks

As we approached Thiksey Monastery it started snowing but did not last long. Our guide is of Tibetan and Mongolian descent but is a Ladakhi, and like a lot of people in this area is a Tibetan Buddhist. The reason we got up early was to observe the morning prayer at this monastery which houses about 60 monks. Like a lot of Tibetan monasteries, this one is built up on a hill with great views of the mountains and local village.

The prayer process starts with two monks walking out on to a ledge and blowing conches to announce the start of prayer. Then monks young and old start appearing from all corners to enter the prayer hall. We were able to go in and observe. Essentially there is a lot of chanting, very musical and hypnotic. Small boy monks when not chanting themselves, walk round offering butter tea and rice to the monks, and today to us.

Thiksey was built in imitation of Potala Palace in Lhasa, Tibet, which I was lucky enough to visit last year. From the monastery there is a stunning view of the Indus River Valley. In the new building there is a three-story statue of the Maitreya Buddha - apparently one the most beautiful pieces of religious art anywhere in Ladakh.

Breakfast then another monastery

We had a breakfast at the monastery restaurant. After breakfast, we drove to visit Hemis monastery following the Indus river. This road was wider and better quality, which seemed to promote more crazy overtaking moves by other drivers.

Hemis monastery sits up in the mountains at about 3700m, above the town of Karu. One of the largest and richest gompas of Ladakh, Hemis gompa is believed to have been established in 1630 by Lama Tagstang Raspa and built on a site previously sanctified by the construction of a cave hermitage dating from the 12th century. This monastery is the oldest one in the area. During the late 17th century and early 18th century, the main Gompa building reached its zenith with the construction of the Dukhang Chenmo, or large assembly hall. It's ancient building, the main entrance to the Gompa building, the large courtyard and its enclosing gallery are decorated with painted stone reliefs.

It started snowing again as we looked around, although the sun kept popping out. Again, a spectacular setting with great views. Returning to the road we crossed the river via a thin metal bridge festooned with prayer flags.

Stupas, snow a third monastery, and a cup of lemon tea

We started travelling back to Leh, but on route we stopped in the small town of Shey where there is this bizarre sandy space with dozens of Stupas in it that were built in 11th century. It started snowing again while we were looking at these.

Then we walked up to Shey monastery situated on a hillock 8 miles from Leh. It was once the residence of the royal family. According to tradition, it was the seat of power of the pre-Tibetan kings. A 7.5-meter-high copper status of Buddha plated with gold and the largest of its kind is installed here, and there is also a brand new statue being built just below the monastery, and just about completed, which is very eye catching.

Up in the monastery our guide met up with an old school friend who is now a monk here. He invited us in for a cup of lemon tea!

A look round the town of Leh

Finally we drove back to the town of Leh and had a walk around the shops and markets. A lot of refugee Tibetans have stalls and cafes here. The original old town buildings are now small homestays or cafes etc. we found a local cafe and had a quick snack before catching a taxi back up the hill to our hotel. On arrival found that there was yet another power cut but this was short lived. Hopefully we have power for the rest of the day, as we also lose internet if it goes.

Tomorrow we head away from Leh and travel north west following the Indus River to a small town called Uleytokpo.