Day 5 27th April Villages, locals, nuns, monasteries and coloured mountains

Photo above - hanging with the nuns at Themisgang nunnery.

Heading further into the mountains

We had a late breakfast, and then set off to drive to the village of Hemis Shukpachen (12,300 feet/3750m) which is one of largest villages in Ladakh, however at the last census there were only 144 households here! It was a lovely sunny morning which quickly warmed up after the cold overnight temperatures.

The first few miles were on the main highway NH1 that we were driving yesterday, then we turned up a single track road heading up higher in to the mountains. We had only gone a few 100 metres when we were stopped by yet another JCB clearing a rock slide. He quickly got out of the way though and we continued up the road, following a stream through a gorge.

Hemis Schukpachen village visit

At one point we stopped to take photos of some Urial (like Ibex) that were feeding on an impossible slope on the other side of the stream. Once out of the gorge we came across a whole load of Apricot trees in blossom. We eventually came to the village of Hemis Schukpachen. This is quite a big village for the area and it sprawls across the hillside. There was a mixture of old crumbling abandoned houses, traditional buildings, and some houses being built. There were the usual religious constructions around the village, like prayer wheels and stupas, but the village is dominated by a small temple with a Buddha statue on top, right at the top of the village.

We climbed up to the temple to look at the views over the village, and of the snow capped mountains in the background. We met the 81 year old guy who is the keeper of the keys for the temple. He seems to spend all his time up there just wandering round the statue.

Stories of a mother

Next we walked round to see a local lady who runs a home stay at her house. She showed us her original old kitchen which is now just for show as she cooks in the new part of the house for guests. We also found out that she was 66, and had 5 children all born naturally at home. There were no doctors who served the village. When someone got ill, they would consult a wise elder in the town, who might refer them to the lama. There were some astrological consultations and they might be referred to an oracle. It is unlikely a doctor would become involved at all!

Our hostess also showed us the special head gear she wears for special occasions like weddings and visits from a religious representative. We then had a mint tea before leaving.

Hike through coloured mountains

From this village there is a very recently constructed road that links the next village, Ang 3480m/11,420ft, about 5km away. We were told however that it may be blocked due to rock slides, so we decided to walk the route, partly along the road, then partly along a hiking trail. The scenery was amazing with steep sided green, red and brown mountains in the foreground, snow capped mountains in the background, and strangely weathered rocks along the road.

Along the trail we saw a couple of lizards, one small white one, and a bigger brown and black one. After two hours of walking, we made it to Ang and had a picnic. This is a really small village with maybe only 20 or so families here. We then drove a few miles down hill to the larger village of Themisgang where we are staying tonight.

Visiting with the nuns

After chilling in the hotel for a while, in the late afternoon we drove up the mountain that overlooks our hotel. First stop was a Buddhist nunnery, where the nuns there let us sit in the courtyard and ask questions and take a few photos. There are only about 20 nuns living there but they are of all ages.

Then we drove further up to a monastery right on top of the mountain. Great location as always. Then we walked back down to the hotel.

Tomorrow we visit a couple more local villages, then drive further west to a town called Lamayuru.