Day 24 - 26th March Head north into the mountains of Guinea, and see a tribal ceremony

Photo above - Baga Nimba mask ceremony, Kindia. Photos below

We set off at about 8.45, discussing stories of the previous nights stay ie cockroaches, broken toilet seats, no water pressure, sparking electrics, broken air conditioning etc

Today we drive to the town of Kindia, the fourth largest city with a population of about 185,000, and we start heading into the Fouta Djallon range of mountains, where temperatures are reportedly lower.

The day got off to a bad start when a couple of miles down the road, we got pulled over at the first police checkpoint. There were some heated arguments between our Guinea driver and the police, lots of pointing at paperwork, a couple of payments were made, and we were eventually sent on our way!

There seems to be more cars on the road in Guinea compared with the last two or three countries. We also passed by some factories which we had not seen before except in the cities. Although Guinea is not as poor as Liberia and Sierra Leone overall, there does seem to be a lot of people living in very poor conditions. For a long while one small town merged into another small town with no break.

After about an hour and a half, another checkpoint, another request to pull over and discuss papers and visas. At this point we could see the mountains rising up in front of us. After much arguing and gestculating, we were sent on our way, and almost immediately, the road started riding sharply into the mountains. A couple of times we were quite near a railway line, but I have seen no trains.

A few times I have seen African women walking around topless, but it is amusing to see here in Guinea, Muslim women wearing head coverings, but still being topless. All through this trip whilst on the road, there have been two things that have been very common that you would never see in Europe. Firstly, lots of broken down trucks that are literally stopped on the road whilst the driver tinkers with the engine or changes a tyre, with no attempt to park off road. Sometimes the truck is left whilst the driver walks off to get help. The second is lots of wrecked cars and vans at the side of the road, which again are simply left there, but also they are are cannabalised where they lay, and completely stripped of everything except the metal frame of the car. So seats, dashboard, tyres, wheels, windows, lights, steering wheel etc all gone!

We eventually arrived at the hotel, where we had lunch. I went for a short walk near the hotel and found a barber, so had another haircut. As I was walking back, a family cooking a meal, beckoned me over, and wanted me to take their photos, and have a photo taken with them. They did not speak French or English, so it was all a bit difficult, but they were very friendly and did not want money. Then a few yards later an old lady of about 90 beckoned me over. She asked me to sit down and we tried to have a conversation but the language barrier beat us again. She kept grasping my hand, and peculiarly, rubbing the leg of my shorts! Anyway it was all very friendly, and we parted the best of friends!

At about 4pm, we went out again to a local village to see a Baga Nimba mask ceremony. Very similar to other one we have seen but nonetheless very entertaining, and it was great to see all the villagers young and old enjoying it to. There were two female, and two male dancers, and two different masks dancers, and the ceremony is related to fertility.

There was mayhem as we were leaving with the kids as usual, trying to get in the van with us. Once we got away, we drove a couple of miles down a dirt road to a place that serves local cuisine. Had rice, cous cous, vegetables, local sauces, local beer etc.

Finally headed back to the hotel. Tomorrow, we get a couple of 4wd cars and go high up into the mountains